SLEEPING BAG

Sleeping bag is one of the most important gear of a camper. It is essential for someone who spend the night outside. Its basic role is to keep the body tempruture
the same. It's a sweet sensation that assures you of a comfortable night's sleep.

To make a bed at the campground, you'll need a sleeping bag. They come in various shapes and use different materials for insulation. The type of camping you do will determine what type sleeping bag you'll need.

There are some clues that we have to consider before buying a sleeping bag. And we must decide well which sleeping bag is the best chooise.

Here are some tips to help you make a smart choice when selecting your own sleeping bag

1. Match your bag's comfort rating with the coldest nighttime temperatures you expect to encounter - and maybe even exceed that number for a little security.

2. Bags using down insulation are lighter (providing a higher "warmth-to-weight" ratio) than bags using synthetic fill. They also compress into smaller shapes and last longer.

3. Synthetic-fill bags can provide some insulation even when wet, and they dry out fairly quickly. Plus, for the same temperature rating, they cost less than down bags.

4. A bag's shape matters. Mummy-style bags insulate most effectively and are your best choice for colder, high-elevation conditions; rectangular bags give you more room to change sleeping positions but offer more space that your body must heat up.

5. A good sleeping pad is essential. Your body weight compresses a bag's insulation when you lie on it, so you need a reliable buffer between your bag and the cold ground.

6. Want immediate sleeping bag recommendations based on your needs?

When evaluating sleeping bags, we must consider these factors:

- Comfort rating
- Insulation (down or synthetic fill)
- Weight
- Size when compacted
- Shape

COMFORT RATING

A sleeping bag's temperature or "comfort" rating identifies the most extreme temperature the bag is designed to accommodate. When you hear a bag described as a ''+20 bag,'' it suggests most users should remain comfortable if the air temperature drops no lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Are such ratings infallible? No. Humans all have different metabolic rates, and no industry standards exist that uniformly determine sleeping bag comfort ratings. Instead, each manufacturer assigns a rating to its bags based on its own research. Therefore, use these numbers as a guide, not a guarantee. If you have trouble deciding between two bags, it's not a bad idea to select one that offers a little more warmth than you think you might need.

INSULATION

DOWN

Down is the wispy, fluffy undercoating found just beneath the outer feathers of geese and ducks. This natural fiber is an extraordinary insulator. Goose down is preferred to down from ducks, prized because it is believed its plumes offer a higher ''fillpower'' (explained below).
Down's positives :
-It offers tremendous warmth for surprisingly little weight (thus offering a superior "warmth-to-weight" ratio).
-It can be compacted into very small sizes.
-Its effectiveness outperforms synthetic insulation by years - even decades.

Down's negatives
-If it gets wet, it is of no value until it dries - and in the field, that can take a long time.
-It is more expensive (keep in mind, though, that its resistance to deterioration makes it an outstanding long-term value).

SYNTHETIC

Synthetic materials are basically plastic threads (extruded polymers, to be technical). The threads are most commonly a continuous filament (a long, single strand). They can also be arranged in short ''staples'' up to four inches long. Usually the threads are hollow, reducing their weight and enabling them to trap more air.

The advantages of synthetic fill include:

- It still provides some insulation when wet; plus it dries fairly quickly.
- It's less expensive than down.
- It's non-allergenic.


The negatives of synthetic fill are:

- It' s bulkier than down (so it takes up more space when you're carrying it).
- It' s heavier (it takes more weight to get the same warmth down provides).
- The filaments gradually degrade over time.
- The insulating ''batts'' of filaments are stiffer than down and do not drape over the contours of your body as effectively.

SHAPE

Mummy Type

These narrow, close-fitting bags are designed to save weight and maximize heat retention. They start narrow at the feet, get wider toward the shoulder, then taper to an insulated, fitted hood. Nearly all backpacking bags are mummy-shaped.

- Positives: The slim cut increases efficiency and saves space and weight. Hoods retain a lot of warmth.

- Negatives: The narrow shape can feel restrictive to some people and inhibit sleep.

SEMİ - RECTANGULAR

These models are narrow at the feet, broad at the hips and shoulders. You get more space than a mummy supplies, but also more weight and bulk. Some offer hoods.

- Positives: Good heat retention and a little more room to maneuver.

- Negatives: More room means your body has more space to keep warm; some thrashers still find them restrictive.

RECTANGULAR

These are warm-weather sleeping bags built to be roomy. As a result, they let a lot of body heat escape. Many rectangular bags can be unzipped and used as comforters. Few have hoods.

- Positives: Lots of interior wiggle room; great for car camping.

- Negatives: They're inefficient insulators, too heavy/bulky for most weight-conscious backpackers.

FABRİC & SHELL MATERIAL

- DryLoft: From the makers of Gore-Tex, this nylon with a water-resistant/breathable membrane is the shell of choice for down sleeping bags used in wet conditions. It can withstand light rain, but not a downpour.
- Taffeta: A light, smooth, almost silky style of nylon. Cozy and touchable.
- Ripstop: Similar in weight and feel to taffeta, but it is reinforced with tiny ribs of material, creating a checkerboard-like pattern. Stronger, but not as luxurious to the feel.

Baffles

Every sleeping bag has a shell (the outer layer) and a liner (the inner layer that touches your skin). In between is the insulation, and the even distribution of that insulation depends on how it is held in place. In better-quality down bags this is done through the use of baffles. In above-average synthetic bags, either shingled construction or offset-quilted layers are used.
The goal in bag construction is to avoid cold spots. Quality down bags do this by using systems such as slant-walled baffles. This means the walls of the baffles are angled so each section partially overlaps the adjacent baffle.
A ''continuous baffle'' is one that wraps around the entire bag. You can then shake the bag and shift more down to the top layer (for cold nights) or bottom (for warm evenings). ''Side block baffles,'' common on the sides of winter bags, block down from migrating out of position.
With synthetic bags, sheets of insulation are offset-quilted and layered atop one another to prevent cold spots. Some synthetic bags are arranged with Z-shaped Z-shaped shingles. Such systems stagger how the insulation is arranged and assures that stitches on the shell (top) of the bag do not connect with stitches on the liner (inside).

Department Store Bags

Less expensive bags often use ''sew-through'' stitching, where the insulation is sandwiched between the shell and the lining, then stitched in place with thread that passes through all three layers. This creates long stitch marks where the bag is very thin. Those thin spots are potential cold spots, and though they might not matter much for a backyard campout, it will matter in the backcountry. Avoid sew-through stitching. You will find it in inexpensive bags sold in department stores, but not in REI's product line.

CARE

Shake It Out

Fluff up your sleeping bag before use. This is especially critical for down bags. You' ll restore the bag's full loft and thus maximize its effectiveness. Make unpacking your bag and pad a priority once you make camp. Always carry a good sleeping pad.

Drying Bags at Home

Dry your bag after every trip. Never leave it damp. Stretch it out on a bed or floor in a dry room until you know it is dry.

Drying Bags in the Field

In the field, avoid direct sunlight if you plan to leave it lying out for the day. (UV light is not healthy for fabrics long-term.) Of course, by all means use sunlight if you need to dry out a wet bag. You can even dry out a damp synthetic bag using your body heat. Give it a try as long as the experience doesn't make you too chilled. Wet down is a soggy, heavy mess. Spread the bag out on a dry, sun-exposed rock if you can. Occasionally move it to a different spot. As it slowly dries, you will need to fluff and bat the baffles to shake the down out of clumps.

Storage

Store your bag in a cool, dry place (such as a bedroom closet). Most bags come with a large cotton storage sack; use it. Your bag will stay nice and ''fluffy,'' which allows the insulation to do its job. Never leave your bag tightly packed inside a stuff sack! Left in a compressed state, the bag will eventually lose loft.